28 March 2012

Tropical North Queensland

The Great Barrier Reef was at first disappointing. I think the reason is because it gets so much hype you just expect it to be better than anything you have ever seen in the sea. The reason however it is so famous is because of the sheer size of it. Something you cannot quite appreciate without doing a helicopter tour or diving / snorkelling in multiple sites. We did have a great time though after this initial disappointment passed. The coral is spectacularly colourful and whilst the fish weren’t as plentiful as what we’ve seen previously we did see some monster wrasses, GIANT clams and a very large stingray relaxing on the ocean floor. Also we were dressed as giant florescent condoms in our stinger suits because of the deadly jelly fish and stingers that frequent the waters at this time of year. We could have died without them, but it was a tough choice...

On the way to the Great Barrier Reef we sailed through some of the Whitsunday Islands which were nice to admire in passing but the next day was even better as we got to explore Hamilton Island as a freebie because of booking the Great Barrier Reef trip. We climbed Passage Peak the tallest point of the island to get an amazing vantage point across some of the close by Islands. This is where we could really appreciate the natural beauty of the Whitsundays. Hamilton Island felt a little bit like a theme park village with people whizzing all over the island in golf carts, pretty marina and lots of resort style accommodation. Very nice if you can afford it!

The next boat trip for us was Magnetic Island just off the coast from Townsville (recently hit by a mini cyclone!). What a beautiful island, with barely any people on it. We walked all over the island as there are walk trails to get you around nearly all of it. We saw black cockatoos enjoy limes from a lime tree, picnicked on a near deserted beach, photographed a Koala lazing about in a low branch and saw lots of amazing views at every turn. 20km of walking later we were knackered as we caught the ferry back to Townsville!

After Townsville we started to head further up the coast and it started raining a lot! Enough to create massive flood damage which luckily we’ve mostly avoided. We tried to find some fruit picking jobs (bananas) but it was too wet for most of the farms to keep working. So we carried on up the coast and visited Paronella Park which is a Spanish Castle built in the midst of the Queensland tropics in the 1920’s! As it had been abandoned before the current owners bought the place it has a lot of moss growing on it and it survived massive flooding and a cyclone making it look all the more atmospheric! The castle grounds feature two waterfalls, one which generates hydroelectric power, a lovely botanical garden, a swimming area, a tunnel of love (once an aquarium, then a mushroom farm and now a bat hideout) and it used to have 2 tennis courts as well as a cinema. It was a great place to explore and stop for the night.

We then headed up past Cairns through to Port Douglas which had a great windy rugged coastal drive. Walked along the usually celebrity filed four mile beach then headed back down the coast and into the tropical north’s hinterland where we saw a multitude of impressive waterfalls bursting with massive amounts of water because of the torrential downpours each day and a huge fig tree. Unfortunately we didn’t manage to spot the tree kangaroo (yes it’s a real thing!) that hangs about in only this part of Australia. One night however as we camped next to a gorge we did get to handfed cute little rock wallabies that had long eyelashes and very politely hold onto your hand whilst they eat! The next day we stopped in Mareeba for a caffeine fuelled morning of coffee and chocolate at Coffee World where we spent over 4 hours enjoying the brews and nibbles as well as the surprisingly interesting coffee machine collection.

Today we visited the Undara Lava tubes which are huge tunnels that have been formed from cooling lava millions of years ago. The sheer size, textures and colour of the tunnels were really impressive as well as the rainforest that surrounds them. Because of the flooding we got to wade in waters up to our knees as we explored one of the tunnels by torch light!

Floods have now stopped us from continuing inland towards the centre of the country as we had planned so we’re going to have to go back to the coast for an 800km diversion to avoid flooded rivers and try to head inland again.

Wish us luck!

Love Chris & Kat xxx

12 March 2012

Exploring Queensland

We had a great 10 days with Dad & Chris; we got spoilt with BBQ food, beers, treats from home and stayed in nice camp sites with their own pool.  Lola led the way with our Sat Nav guiding us up the Sunshine Coast.  Beaches, Museums, Waterfalls, Dams and a National Park walk - all seen in our first couple of days and  then onto the Fraser Coast where we got out fix of wildlife.  We went to Tin Can Bay where dolphins come in each day for feeding, (like Monkey Mia but fair less publicised) it’s a fairly low key affair and it felt really special as we arrived at 7.30am and already Patch and Mystic were in the shallows waiting for their adoring public!  We were allowed to get in the water with them, they were only inches away; you can’t touch them but they can choose to touch you and Patch gave Chris’ leg a nudge and my hand a nuzzle.  Then you can feed the dolphins, which me & Chris did (such a lovely experience) and then I got an extra go along with Dad who had been given some fish for being in a football shirt!

Rum Tasting in Bundaberg

From here we had a relaxing day in Hervey Bay and then had a busy couple of days in Bundaberg.  Our first evening we headed out to the turtle rookery and we were lucky that there were baby turtles hatching as soon as we arrived!  We headed out to the beach and on the higher banks over a hundred little turtles were emerging out of the sand!  The volunteers bundle the babies into a bucket and give them a hand by taking them a little closer to the shore before releasing them again, then the little turles fumble towards the surf and out to sea.  The poor little guys have to fend for themselves from day one, so survival rate is 1 in 1000 but I like to think all our turtles will make it.  Then another nest started hatching and we were lucky to see the process all over again, really special.  We had a lovely day visiting the Hinkler museum (dedicated to aviation master Bert Hinkler, very interesting) and then onto the Bundaberg rum distillary – huzzarh!  Never ones to exit a bar early, we got given a few extra freebies at the end of the tour and Chris picked himself up a bargin new shirt.

Our next destination was Cania National Park, lovely walks and Gorge views.  Then into Rockhampton, where Chris B found the wildlife a little too close for comfort with frogs in the loo, snakes in the laundry room and hairy grasshoppers in the plug holes!  In Rockhampton we passed through into the Tropic of Capricorn and it really was hot!  We managed to visit the zoo, the steam train museum and see the Singing Ship before we all needed to cool off in the pool.  Sadly this is where we had to part ways with Dad & Chris (– SO lovely to see you both J) and me & Chris went to a Crocodile farm.  It was brilliant!  We saw a baby croc hatch, saw the big guys (up to 5 metres) get fed and we held a little one.  They showed us pictures of a crocodile skull found in Texas – they think the full size of the crocodile would have to be over  18 metres – that is HUGE and not something I want to ever come across!

We have since been to Eugella National Park.  We stayed at the most beautiful campsite, basically on top of a mountain overlooking the valley, the view was spectacular.  Here we also went platypus spotting – we went twice at dusk to see the shy creatures, it’s fairly unrewarding as we averaged a glimpse of a platypus every hour!  But they are so darn cute when you do catch a look at them!

We are now in Airlie Beach – the gateway to the Whitsunday Islands & the Great Barrier Reef.  We have splashed out on a trip to the reef and we get a free trip to Hamilton Island the following day, so we’re very excited about it!  But Airlie Beach is a little spoilt due to the competitiveness of everyone trying to get you to book with them, there are LOADS of operators, some aggressively pushy and they all offer the same price and same deals – so why are there so many of them!?!   But hopefully we made the best choice for us and the touts will leave us alone now!  Bring on the coral and the fishes!

Lots of love & miss you all,

Kat & Chris xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx